Wiang Kum Kam in Chiang Mai

Wiang Kum Kam in Chiang Mai - Aleenta Retreat Chiang Mai

We often guide our guests towards experiences that feel more personal—those quiet, soulful discoveries that reveal something deeper about Northern Thailand. One such place lies just a short drive from our doors, yet remains one of Chiang Mai’s best-kept secrets: Wiang Kum Kam.

Tucked away in the verdant floodplain south of the city, Wiang Kum Kam is often referred to as “Chiang Mai’s lost city,” a once-thriving capital that was buried by time, river silt, and history, only to be unearthed centuries later. Today, its scattered ruins and serene atmosphere offer a truly unique glimpse into the early Lanna Kingdom.

Wiang Kum Kam

Long before Chiang Mai became the cultural heart of northern Thailand, King Mengrai established his kingdom at Wiang Kum Kam in the late 13th century. The location, rich in fertile soil along the Ping River, seemed ideal—but repeated flooding made it untenable as a capital. Within a few decades, the seat of power shifted to what is now Chiang Mai, and Wiang Kum Kam was slowly abandoned.

For hundreds of years, the city remained buried beneath layers of river sediment, almost forgotten. That is, until the 1980s, when archaeological excavations brought its ancient brick chedis, crumbling temples, and stone inscriptions back to light. What emerged was a remarkable glimpse into Lanna’s spiritual and political foundation.

Exploring the Ruins

A visit to Wiang Kum Kam is a step back into a quieter, more ancient world. Scattered across open fields and sleepy lanes are over 40 ancient sites, each with its own story.

One of the most striking is Wat Chedi Liam, with its sharp, stepped chedi and distinct Burmese influence—evidence of the region’s cultural exchange. Nearby, Wat Chang Kham features carved elephants supporting the base of the chedi, a powerful symbol of strength and stability. At Wat E-Kang, you’ll find the peaceful remains of a viharn hidden beneath leafy trees, perfect for a moment of reflection.

You could easily spend a half-day exploring these ruins—most are modestly restored, allowing their natural age and charm to shine through. There’s no rush, no crowds, just the gentle hum of cicadas and the occasional monk cycling by.

Walk, Cycle, or Ride in Style

Wiang Kum Kam is more of a historical zone than a single site, spanning several square kilometres. The best way to experience it depends on your pace:

  • Bicycles are available for hire, making for a lovely, leisurely exploration through quiet roads and village surroundings.
  • If you prefer a guided experience, hop aboard a horse-drawn carriage or open-air tram, available from the visitor centre—perfect for families or guests who prefer not to walk long distances.
  • For the independent traveller, a self-guided walking tour with a map or mobile app allows you to wander freely between temples and ruins.

However you choose to explore, the joy lies in the journey. You’re not ticking off famous landmarks—you’re wandering through the bones of a lost civilisation.

Cultural Highlights

Though time has worn away much of Wiang Kum Kam’s grandeur, subtle details still reveal its former glory. Many of the ruins feature classic Lanna architectural features—low brick chedis, arched niches for Buddha images, and traces of stucco ornamentation.

Archaeologists have uncovered Sanskrit and Mon inscriptions, stone tablets, and ancient pottery, evidence of Wiang Kum Kam’s role as a centre of trade, governance, and religion. These fragments, now preserved or displayed at nearby museums, reveal that this wasn’t just a forgotten outpost—it was once the cultural heart of a young kingdom.

A Peaceful Escape from the Usual Tourist Trail

Unlike the busy temples of Chiang Mai’s Old City or the bustling steps of Doi Suthep, Wiang Kum Kam offers something different: space, quiet, and authenticity.

There are no ticket lines, no loudspeakers. Just weathered brick, rustling leaves, and a sense of timelessness. It’s a place for slow travellers, history lovers, and those who find beauty in what’s been left behind.

For photographers, the soft morning light on ancient red brick is a dream come true. For meditators, the stillness is profound. And for the curious, there’s the thrill of standing on the foundations of a city that history almost forgot.

Visiting Wiang Kum Kam

Wiang Kum Kam is located just 15–20 minutes from Chiang Mai’s Old City, making it an easy addition to any itinerary. Here are a few tips to make the most of your visit:

  • Best time to visit: Early morning or late afternoon for cooler weather and gentle light
  • Getting there: Take a tuk-tuk, songthaew, or private car; ask your driver to drop you at the Visitor Centre
  • Entry: Most sites are free to enter, though a small fee applies for tram or carriage tours
  • What to bring: Comfortable shoes, sunscreen, a hat, and a reusable water bottle
  • Dress modestly if you plan to enter active temple grounds.

The Visitor Information Centre provides maps and background materials, and some guides speak English if you’d like deeper insights.

Explore Differently with Aleenta

At Aleenta Chiang Mai, we often recommend Wiang Kum Kam to guests seeking a quieter, more meaningful experience. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t make a lot of noise—but leaves a lasting impression.

Whether you’re a history lover, a spiritual seeker, or simply someone who enjoys a scenic wander through time, Wiang Kum Kam is one of those unique places that reminds us how layered and beautiful Chiang Mai truly is.

And after your visit, we’ll be here to welcome you back with a cool drink, a warm smile, or perhaps a relaxing herbal steam in our spa, letting the day settle in, just as the city itself once did.

 

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Aleenta Retreat
Chiang Mai

189 Soi Ban Mai Lang Mo 18,
Suthep, Muang Chiang Mai District,
Chiang Mai 50200

 

T: +66 (0)52 090 333

E: [email protected]

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